The data are staggering. Just 65% of Black patients survive a melanoma diagnosis, compared to more than 90% of white patients. A recent JLabs webinar looked at this and other issues about skin treatments, sun care and cancer prevention in the Black community. Julie Bianchini, PhD, principal scientist, sun care product and process development, Johnson & Johnson spoke with dermatologists and entrepreneurs about efforts to improve the skin health of Black consumers.
 
Dr. Jenna Lester, a dermatologist at the Skin of Color Clinic in the University of California at San Francisco, said the relationship between melanoma and the higher death rate for Black consumers must be further studied.
 
“We must make sure that we are counseling our patients appropriately,” she warned. “Yes, they have a lower risk of cancer, but it does exist.”
 
Dr. Adewole Adamson, director of the Pigmented Lesion Clinic, Dell Medical School at the University of Texas at Austin, noted that while applying sunscreen is important, there are other considerations.
 
“Fifty percent of melanoma among patients of color occurs on the palms of the hands and the soles of the feet,” he advised. “Consumers must be aware of the data.”
 
Dr. Caroline Robinson, who is also CEO at Tone Dermatology, added that some patients wrongly believe that they shouldn’t be as concerned about skin cancer as lighter-skinned consumers.
 
“We also must be aware that we are becoming a more blended society,” she cautioned. “Patients who identify as Black may have lighter skin tones.”
 
Bianchini asked the experts how they convince their patients about the other benefits of using proper sun protection.
 
“I tell them, ‘yes, Black don’t crack…but it will eventually,’” joked Adamson.
 

Elegant Formulas

Lester said she urges patients to read product labels to find the proper level of UV protection, noting that not every product provides protection against every wavelength. She prefers physical sunscreens to chemical varieties, but said that while many of her patients want to wear inorganic sunscreen formulas, too often these products leave a whitish cast on patients’ faces.
 
“We tell them that sunscreen isn’t the whole story; behavior plays a role in sun protection, too,” observed Robinson, who added that products that proclaim they provide a universal tint are not universal. As a result, she recommends iron oxide-based foundations as an alternative. Robinson also pointed out that rosacea is under-diagnosed in Blacks and these patients can also benefit from regular application of sunscreen.
 
At the same time, the speakers agreed that consumers will regularly use products that they love—unfortunately, most sunscreen formulas do not look good on darker skin tones.
 
“People of color want their SPF, so make a product that is elegant on their skin and you’ll make a lot of money,” said Adamson, who recommended formulas include more iron oxides. 
 

Perhaps, most importantly, Adamson blamed the higher death rate from melanoma to late-stage diagnosis and delays in treatment, which could be insurance-related.
 
“Also, the subtypes of melanoma that Black people get are far more fatal than what white people get,” he added. “We have an opportunity to make a difference with better access to education and treatment.”
 
Along those lines, Lester noted that there is plenty of funding for skin cancer and psoriasis, but there must be more money and research for everyone.
 
“We need to create research opportunities for people rather than just following the grant money to stay employed,” she insisted.
 
Kimberly Dillion, founder and CEO of Frigg Wellness, explained how she is rooted in plant-based science and research. She champions the use of the hemp plant, calling it the ultimate adaptogen for bringing the body back into balance. The company formulates with a wide range of ingredients from hemp, including, of course, cannabidiol.
 
“Working with cannabis opened up the world of wellness to me,” she explained. “We use cannabinoids to address the impact that stress has on hair and skin. Let’s think of skin as a mirror to our overall health.”

 
The Future
 
All of the participants agreed that the Jlabs’ webinar is just the start of what should be an ongoing discussion about the health care needs of Black consumers.
 
“I started Tone Dermatology to serve the south and west sides of Chicago,” recalled Robinson. “We are in the early stages, but we are doing what I wanted to do for the community here and create a practice where people can feel comfortable and open talking about their hair and skin. All patients deserve excellent care and that is my goal.”
 
Lester agreed that there is room for growth in the skin of color arena in areas of research and product development, too. 
 
“Focus follows the money,” she observed.
 
That focus will lead to more personalization, according to Dillion.
 
“Mass market thinking must end,” she insisted. “We can have more personalized products for people by combining telemedicine with new product development. In this way, you can focus on what’s right for the person right in front of you.”
 
And while artificial intelligence (AI) is making inroads in medicine, Adamson warned that the way AI is currently constructed, it overlooks skin of color. He insisted that skin of color must be kept in mind when designing products.
 
“AI must include more skin of color data,” said Adamson.